One of the highlights of my trip to Scotland last month was getting to play golf at Muirfiled for the first time. Muirfield is one of the five oldest golf clubs in Scotland, founded in 1744 in Leith, and probably one of the most exclusive. It is home to the Honourable Company of Edinburgh Golfers and lays claim to having written the original 13 rules of golf before turning over governance of the game to the R&A in St. Andrews.
Located just outside of Edinburgh in East Lothian, Muirfield runs along the same coast line as the great Gullane and Luffness Golf Courses. It has been home to the Open Championship fifteen times (and will host it again in 2013), as well as many amateur championships and the 1973 Ryder Cup. The course was originally laid out by Tom Morris in 1891. In 1923, 50 acres were purchased north of the course and course designer Harry Colt introduced 14 new holes. His design included two loops of nine holes, one played within the other in the opposite direction, so the direction of the wind changes on nearly every hole. Most of the changes since then have been to extend the tees back to account for the improvements in equipment to keep Muirfield on the Open rota. One recent change, that is very evident, is the lengthening of the tee on number nine. They actually had to knock down the wall that surrounds the course to move the tee 25-30 yards further back. They also added a new bunker to catch the pros, but all the members are hitting into it off their forward tees.
The Honourable Company of Edinburgh Golfers prefer to play two-ball match play, or what we refer to as alternate shot here in the U.S. A morning round is easily completed in two or two and a half hours, followed by a large lunch and cocktails, then a second round of golf in the afternoon. As visitors we were allowed to play our own ball, which was a treat. You never know when you'll get to play there again, so it was great to get to see and play the entire course. And it is a great course. It is a classic links layout running along the coast with amazing views of Fife across the Firth of Fourth. The rough is very high and can make it very hard to find wayward shots. There are also a lot of bunkers that are extremely steep and almost always result in a stroke added to the scorecard. Good players are well rewarded for being long and straight off the tee.
Contrary to popular belief, women are allowed to play Muirfield as guests, but there are no lady members and no mixed facilities in the clubhouse. Dogs are also allowed on the course. Above is a picture of our playing companion Rocket.
After you play, you change into a jacket and tie and enjoy a large lunch. We had a two hour drive back to St. Andrews, so there was no drinking for us, but there is one famous story I can't resist repeating. Supposedly one of the members was pulled over on his way home one evening after being at the club and administered a breathalyzer. Much to his surprise he passed. He was surprised because he had just finished off several large drinks before getting in the car and by rights, knew he should be on his way to jail. He immediately headed back to the club and accused the bartender of watering down the drinks, which he indeed was doing, and was fired on the spot.
If you are a golf lover, you should make plans to play Muirfield on your next Scottish golf adventure. Luckily I played with a member, so it didn't cost me anything, but the course is open to visitors on Tuesdays and Thursdays for £190 ($315) for one round and £240 ($400) for two rounds on the day.
With a title like A Short History of Nearly Everything, you might think that Bill Bryson has bit off more than he can chew, but you will be pleasantly surprised how readable it is. Much of what Bryson covers are things you would have learned in a good undergraduate program, but have forgotten over the years. 
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