Thursday, September 3, 2009

Esparza's Tex Mex


Esparza's in another long time favorite that for some reason I have never reviewed here on M+W.

When we first moved here from LA I was worried that there would be no Mexican food in Portland. That fear was assuaged by finding Esparza's. I should start out by saying I like traditional Mexican food, some of the best restaurants I have ever been to are in Mexico City (great seafood), but I don't like California Mexican with all the sour cream and cilantro and a burrito is not Mexican to me. If you are going to bastardize Mexican food, the only way to do it is Tex Mex. That means plenty of spicy meat and cheese rolled in tortillas with rice and refried beans on the side. That means fajitas with chips and salsa to start. That means margaritas and cold beer. Esparza's does not have fajitas on the menu, but they are heavy on all the other favorites as well as some interesting diversions.

Joe Esparza learned his recipes from his mom growing up in San Antonio. He has great tacos, tamales, and enchiladas filled with cheese, chicken or beef, but if you are the adventursome type you can also get them filled with ostrich, salmon or buffalo. My favorite dish is the Cowboy Tacos, which are three large tacos filled with beef brisket and BBQ sauce. I like to get a side of pico de guyo to make sure each taco is loaded up. They also have great margaritas, I recommend the Cadilac, on the rocks, no salt. They also have a wide range of tecillas and beers. On Thursday nights they have my favorite Texas dish, chicken fried steak with mashed potatoes and gravy. It is awesome. On top of great food and quick service, you will also get some pretty cool ambience. There is a lot of 50's style cowboy art, stuffed armadillos and dozens of marionettes that hang from the ceiling. This place has been around for a long time, but is still one of Portland's best.

Mon-Sat 11:30am-10pm (in summer Fri-Sat until 10:30pm)

Esparza's Tex Mex
2725 SE Ankeny St
Portland, OR
(503) 234-7909

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